Merit has carved out a reputation for thoughtful simplicity. When Retrospect launched in 2024, fragrance might have seemed like an unexpected move for a label known mostly for minimalist makeup; but the soft, quietly complex eau de parfum quickly became a hit, cementing Merit’s place in fragrance as well. Clearly, consumers found resonance in effortless perfume, too.
Two years later, Merit is introducing its second fragrance act: New Wave l’extrait de parfum is here. This time, master perfumer Dominique Ropion and perfumer Meabh McCurtin set out to create a fragrance that feels classic and enduring, steering clear of fleeting trends—an approach reminiscent of their process with Retrospect. The biggest learning, she continues, was the need for optionality—understanding that fragrance is deeply personal and Retrospect wouldn’t be for everyone.
We like to say Retrospect and New Wave are cousins, not sisters—they have that shared maturity but go about it in quite different ways.” Merit New Wave L’Extrait de Parfum Why We Love It: New Wave, has exceptional staying power because the extract contains a substantial concentration of fragrance oil—30% to be exact. It’s also exceptionally complex, with 21 unique notes, allowing the perfume to evolve over time on the wearer’s skin and clothes. Top notes of pink pepper and angelica seed quickly give way to frankincense, patchouli, cedarwood, and grassy greens.
Meanwhile, notes of benzoin, tobacco accord, and vanilla bean take a backseat, softening the overall solar, spicy profile. Notes: Pink Pepper, angelica seed, ylang-ylang, patchouli heart, frankincense, musk, cypriol, vetiver, tobacco accord This Smells Like: Freshly lit incense in a swanky hotel. New Wave is no copy of past successes.
Instead of repeating familiar formulas, Ropion and McCurtin focused on why certain scent structures, like amber, remain timeless—and how to give them new life. Together, these materials create what we call a Neo Gold.” Described as “unconventionally constructed,” New Wave brings together incense, woods, tobacco, vanilla, tonka, and musks for a layered and intriguing base. Despite its richness, the scent is designed to feel fresh and radiant—a “solar” effect that’s more about sensation than any single note.
It is a feeling of warmth, radiance, and light on skin,” they continue. Inspiration came from a mood board sent by CMO Aila Morin, filled with golden hues that sparked the idea of translating emotion into scent. Those qualities became more important than any specific ingredient.” Over two years of refining and reworking, the perfumers deepened New Wave’s complexity, with their collaborative dynamic at the heart of the process.
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