I COME FROM the denim era where streetwear juggernauts like FUBU and Rocawear reigned supreme, along with mall favorites like Abercrombie & Fitch and Hollister. I was in my preteens rocking all these clothing brands and you couldn’t tell me their baggy-stacking-at-the-shoe jeans weren’t the flyest on the market. Since I began working as a fashion editor, I’ve practically worn every pair of jeans in the denim universe.
Slim, relaxed, stretch, washed, distressed—you name it, I’ve probably tried it. I’ve even tried my hand at denim-making in Japan, the mecca of old-school, high-quality denim, where I produced my own pair of selvedge jeans. Denim is one of those rare items in a guy’s wardrobe that never goes out of style.
And after years of being in the menswear space, I’ve gotten familiar with the nuances that distinguish one kind of denim from the next. Two worth knowing are regular denim and raw denim. Raw denim usually looks darker, stiffer, and more uniform in color, while regular denim has a softer feel and a more broken-in appearance with visible fading or whiskering from factory washing and finishing.
Those differences also affect how each pair feels when you first put it on and how it changes over the years. Here’s what to know about both and which one deserves a spot in your rotation. Regular jeans are usually made by weaving cotton yarn into denim, then cutting fabric into patterns and sewing them together to create the finished garment.
These jeans have already gone through washing or finishing treatments to soften the fabric and give them that broken-in look, so you don’t have to spend weeks waiting for them to feel comfortable. If I want to throw on a pair of jeans and get on with my day, this is the kind I’m reaching for. I also like that you can find them in practically every fit and wash, whether you’re after a clean, dark indigo pair or something faded and lived-in.
Most everyday options from brands like Levi’s and Wrangler run roughly $40 to $100, while designer and premium styles can cost considerably more. For me, prewashed denim makes the most sense when you want that comfortable feel from the jump. There’s nothing wrong with skipping the break-in period and getting straight to the good part.
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