Something unique and probably bad happens to a menswear nerd’s brain during fashion month. Between New York, London, Milan, and Paris, we’re being force-fed hundreds of runway looks, A Clockwork Orange–style, our eyes propped open. Sure, this means we’re tired and overwhelmed and should be wearing those “GIVE ME SPACE” vests they put on nervous dogs.
But on the other hand, we’ve analyzed enough suits, separates, and collections that we’ve temporarily ascended to a higher plane. And because knowledge shared is knowledge gained or whatever, I think we should document our findings. So, I texted all my menswear friends to tell me their top look from the spring 2027 season, and why.
Murray Clark, head of editorial content, British GQ Gucci, Look 1 “I expect popped collars at Ralph Lauren. I’ve grown accustomed to them at Michael Rider’s Celine, too. But in Demna’s latest Gucci collection—an absolute clinic in worldbuilding as a cast of characters preened through a mock-up store—the popped collar was less soft jock, more Milanese credit-card-juggling heir with a very active Raya account.
It’s easy, and sexy, and confident, and just the right amount of silly.” Rose Forde, stylist Valentino, Look 18 “This look actually really stood out at Valentino. It’s such a delicate touch for them, but I thought it was beautiful, and the pop of lime with an accessory is genius. It’s also a loose bib, so it has movement.
Elegance and ease is always my most-loved combination.” Francesco Martino, senior style editor, GQ Italia Jil Sander, Look 42 “At Jil Sander, Simone Bellotti is trying to redefine the concept of minimalism in the digital age, an era of livestreamed fashion shows, where images become available just a handful of minutes after the show ends. This look is a perfect example of this, from the way the coat moves, almost like a living organism of its own, to how the pale pink creates an almost shocking effect against the rest of the color palette. If we were to take away that outerwear, it would simply be a beautiful look; adding it makes it one of my favorites of this season.” Benjamin Canares, stylist and fashion editor, HTSI Celine, Look 73 “I loved the color combination of purple and red, with a white shoe.
And obviously the cummerbund!” Mahalia Chang, senior style editor, British GQ Conner Ives, Look 24 “If I could disappear into any fashion universe, it might be Conner Ives’s. Inside his slinky NYC club, it’s all about maximalism and flamboyance in the laziest, coolest way. I was so into this undone gentleman with his cummerbund over his boxers and his crisp shirt sleeves rolled up.” Angelo Mitakos, fashion editor, British GQ Ferragamo, Look 20 “I love what Maximilian Davis is doing at Ferragamo, and this season’s fisherman’s vests may be a favorite.
Extract — continue reading at the source.