Somewhere between the serum shelf and your For You page, “medical-grade” became the most reassuring phrase in beauty. It conjures authoritative images of a lab coat, a prescription pad, and the idea that your money is going somewhere serious. But, plot twist: Not one person regulates the term.
After all, there are only a few skincare ingredients proven to work, and dermatologist Mona Gohara, MD, says skeptical shoppers ask her about the term every day. After all, no one wants to be duped by products and ingredients that are a total scam. Meet the experts: Joshua Zeichner, MD, is an associate professor of dermatology and the director of cosmetic & clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City.
Mona Gohara, MD, is a clinical professor in the department of dermatology at Yale School of Medicine. So, let’s sort the science from the sales pitch. Read on to find out what the term (kinda, sorta) means, what it doesn’t, and how to shop the skincare aisle like a dermatologist.
Ask around, and the definitions of ‘”medical-grade” skincare multiply. Zeichner says it usually indicates a product with a high concentration of science-backed active ingredients, but not always. Depending on the brand, it can refer to the quality of a product’s ingredients, any clinical testing on the final formula, or the use of one particular active.
Gohara likens the phrase to physician-dispensed skincare designed to complement dermatologic care (in other words, the products you’d purchase at a doctor’s office). But now, she says it became shorthand for formulas built around specific skin concerns and that its visibility has grown as consumers have become more interested in the ingredients and science behind their routines. Shoppers tend to assume these products are stronger and come with a dermatologist’s guidance, but they shouldn’t, says Dr.
In his view, the skincare market is extremely crowded, and this is a way brands are chasing a competitive edge. In some cases, the term is used interchangeably with other unregulated phrases, like “dermatologist-formulated” or “dermatologist-approved,” giving the appearance of a professional quality product, whatever that means. Let’s start with the regulatory facts.
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