This article has been reviewed according to Science X's editorial process and policies. Editors have highlighted the following attributes while ensuring the content's credibility: When ocean waves reach shallow water, their complex interactions can produce lower-frequency infragravity waves. These waves strongly affect—and are affected by—the shape of coastlines, linking them to erosion, sediment deposition and the degradation of coastal ice.
A new analysis from Henderson and team used Bayesian probability methods to assess the contributions of different types of infragravity waves to wave run-up. The researchers collected data from a network of pressure and velocity sensors at Torrey Pines State Beach in California over 60 days. The research is published in the Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans.
The Bayesian method the researchers used—known as the maximum a posteriori (MAP) technique—is effective for separating components of a measured signal. In this case, it allowed the researchers to measure edge waves, which run parallel to the shoreline. They found that edge waves account for roughly 28% of infragravity wave energy, a result with important implications for nearshore wave processes.
When waves reach shallow water, they grow higher and eventually break. But infragravity waves can cause interference and contribute to phenomena like the dangerous "sneaker waves" that can kill or injure beachgoers around the world. The study demonstrates how researchers can use oceanographic data to determine the role of infragravity waves in interactions between waves and the shoreline.
The approach could help researchers study phenomena such as sneaker waves and shoreline decay amid sea level rise. Henderson et al, Bayesian Analysis of Infragravity Edge Waves, Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans (2026). DOI: 10.1029/2026jc024479 Journal information: Journal of Geophysical Research MA in English, copy editor since 2021 with experience in higher education and health content.
Dedicated to trustworthy science news. Full profile → Bachelor's in mathematical biology, Master's in creative writing. Well-traveled with unique perspectives on science and language.
Extract — continue reading at the source.
